The Fashion World Under Martial Law

The Effects of World War II

 
Au Revoir, Paris
       The first major jolt to the fashion world was the sudden cutting of all ties to the center of the fashion universe: Paris. The German occupation from 1940-1944 not only halted the development of Paris's own haute couture, but it left its stylistically immature children, Britain and the U.S., to their own devices. In the grand scheme of things, this was undoubtedly for the better, although it was a long time before the benefits were apparent. Both countries were forced to develop their own fashion design tastes and manufacturing industries. While their preliminary efforts did not outlast the war, the seed was planted for this culturally fulfilling and economically profitable business. But the initial abandonment only added to the confusion and despondency of the time.
"Domestic Battledress"
       The effects of the Second World War were drastic in all aspects of life. In the fashion realm, wartime restriction posed a practical problem. There was a shortage of pretty much everything, and fine cloth was out of the question. There was also the general shortage of labor that all industries faced. In favor of the national economy, the government corked freedom of expression in terms of fashion. Obviously, designers and consumers alike understood and respected this necessity, and bared the brunt of artistic drudgery. The government, by both process of elimination and direct restrictions, created what is often referred to as the "domestic battledress" of the war.
       The British government was forced to impose more restrictions than its American counterparts. Their "Utility Scheme" regulated the quality and price of all garments produced, and restricted the ability to purchase with the implementation of a coupon system. Clothes were, essentially, rationed. While this wasn't specifically American, it is important to know in order to better understand the post-war responses of the fashion world at large.
       America did, however, have its own rules. The War Production Board controlled price limits of certain apparel, as well as the amount of fabric used to make it. The L 85 scheme was designed to conserve as much material as possible in order to provide enough uniforms on the front lines. It banned styles that were considered wasteful of fabric, such as cuffed sleeves, double yokes, sashes, patch pockets, and hoods. (4) Old-fashioned individualized production methods, such as personal tailoring, were suddenly overtaken by a need for efficiency and speed, and civilian clothes were manufactured just like uniforms.
  A wartime fashion show for the specific purpose of showing women how to conserve as many resources as possible (4, p. 142)
       Thus, Americans found themselves looking strikingly similar, in harsh, wide-shouldered suits of dark, plain fabric. They were rarely adorned, as accessories such as hats, belts, and underwear, were all equally hard to come by. The infamous look of the Utility suit was comprised of a pleated, knee-length skirt and a wide-shouldered, non-tailored jacket that hung freely to the hips.
Say Hello to Rosie the Riveter: Women's New Roles

       The absence of so many men left a dangerous shortage of labor during the war. As desperate times called for desperate measures, the huge social leap was made to bring women into even the roughest jobs in the workplace. The government-created stereotype of "Rosie the Riveter" encouraged women to take on hefty jobs to support the war effort. Women were praised for being strong and working outside, as well as inside, the home.
       This alone explains why it is so common so see women wearing slacks in the forties but much less frequent in the fifties. The dark fabrics portrayed the somber mood, and the masculinity of clothing reminded people that the comparative superficiality of such things was of a lesser concern at the moment. The clothes were all so alike, and all so plain; as if to make women feel that they, too, were suiting and going to fight their own home front war everyday. While these things were clearly caused by sheer lack of supplies, labor, and money, it is interesting to note how it played out in the fashions and psyches of American women.

The Spoils of War
       There is a silver lining to almost every cloud. (However, considering the lasting devastation of WWII, the lining is very thin.) American manufacturers gained the skills and technology that had been developed for wartime mass-production. This gave way to the "ready-to-wear" industry of fashion, which has since come to dominate entirely. As opposed to having clothes individually made, by either a tailor, the mother/wife, or yourself, the outfits were produced in varying sizes and sold as such.